tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16684600245813028392024-03-14T07:40:27.629-07:00Chalupy AcresJRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.comBlogger374125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-66210735457309257392016-11-07T16:22:00.000-08:002016-11-07T16:22:01.085-08:00Winter ComesPost long overdue!<br />
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Winter is here, and time to have our annual post from the Chugach<br />
mountains. This was the first of the year. It did not last long! Only a few weeks. But more is forecast on Friday. A few troubles have kept me away from the shop. I will be back.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-61336296284046441112016-08-27T20:19:00.000-07:002016-08-27T20:19:03.010-07:00An interlude on the KenaiWe went down to the Kenai river the other day, at the invitation to my daughter's boss Jeff, who has a lovely house on the river. The house is quite the impressive structure. I view it as a rustic palazzo. The big beams are timber-framed. <br />
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There is a fishing dock provided for your fishing pleasure. Complete with running water from a tap, so you can wash out your catch. You fish with a couple of meters of line with any old rod and reel. Jeff provided bait-casting reels, which I hate. I caught nothing.<br />
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Day and night the Kenai flows by. It is most relaxing. Soothing. Here's looking upstream. You can see a few houses. They will be very expensive. It is not a poor man's paradise.<br />
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Looking downsteam.There are a few houses, but I left them out on purpose.<br />
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Somtimes quiet kayaks go by. Less often powerboats. I prefer, of course, the kayaks. They seem to fit right in with this environment.<br />
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I didn't catch any fish, as I said,. Jeff, of course, can catch fish anywhere.<br />
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We ate this guy for dinner. My daughter has a video of Jeff filleting this salmon. When she sends it to me, I'll see if I can post it. He does it in well under 5 minutes.<br />
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We ate very well. Jeff's palazzo has smokers, grills, ovens... the complete works. It was a wonderful interlude. <br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-54113110446925158672016-08-03T20:54:00.002-07:002016-08-03T20:54:23.925-07:00A dividing plate for the dividing headIf you look back on the archives (under the label "DividingHed" (misspell) you will see my homemade dividing head, made out of a printer salvage and some (literally) bedstead scraps. The way a dividing head works is based on a worm and gear. For each turn of the worm, the gear advances one tooth. I happen to have a 75 tooth gear. So if you had a 75 tooth gear to cut, life would be easy: one turn per tooth. In real life not all gears have 75 teeth. Sometimes more, sometimes less. So you have full turns or no full turns plus a fraction. The fraction of a turn is supplied by a <i>dividing plate</i>. It is a circle full of a bunch of holes that give you the fraction. I carefully worked out the holes needed by my clock and concluded I could get away with 50 and 40 hole plates. Commercial dividing heads come supplied with all kinds of plates with a wide variety of holes.<br />
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The first step in making one of these plates is to run my PostScript program that lays out the plate. I could have used a CAD program but I am afraid that their conversion to print format will distort my plate. That done, I glue the template on to a Lexxan circle. Now the fun begins. <br />
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Above I am using my optical center punch (Veritas) to centerpunch each hole. Very tedious work. Next to this is a box of very tiny Morse drill bits. By hand, with an Archimides drill I will go through each hole. Also very tedious. This gives me a pilot hole. Now we can get going.<br />
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Using still a very small drill -- about 1mm -- we drill each hole a bit larger, and so on till the last size, around 4mm. For this kind of work opti-visors are really wonderful. See below.<br />
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Next job is to mount the plate on the dividing head. After all that work, this is easy.<br />
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This dividing plate has worked extremely well, and revealed a design flaw in the head itself. Deal with that later! Meanwhile I have an escape wheel to cut, shown below.<br />
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The escape wheel is not really a gear. It is a starfish-shaped wheel that regulates the rate at which the clock ticks. So the article says I should use a slitting saw but nobody makes one small enough for my mill. I use a Dremel abrasive disk instead. This is about half a millimeter thick. Bit thick, but the scape wheel came out very nicely.<br />
<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-52073259567681791702016-07-16T20:52:00.001-07:002016-07-16T20:52:26.578-07:00Stool pigeon part IIWe have made great progress on the stool. In facr it is usable as it is. The remaining steps are shown in this post. The next step is to add the braces. The long braces are jointed. The short ones are put in with glue and screws. I had neither the patience nor enough material to joint them.<br />
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The next thing to do is to really attach the legs to the top, since I do not trust construction adhesive at all, and note the skirts in place. You can see the dowels I put in. That should hold it. Drilling the holes is of course tricky.<br />
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This double bevel stuff is tough. I wonder how the power tool fraternity would do it! OK, there she is. A bit of an error on one leg. Should use two jig triangles. Live and learn.<br />
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After a few days of sitting on this thing I decided a more ergonomic design was in order, so I decided to carve it to fit my seat.<br />
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I used a fishtail gouge, a cheap Chinese item which I got a decent edge on it. That took a while. The gouge is to the left, mallet in center, and to the left is a<i> scorp</i>. This is a European-made tool, which I bought some time ago. The factory edge would not cut butter. It took a stick wrapped in sandpaper, my diamond hones and a lot of effort to get it to go. But it is made for exactly that purpose -- chair scooping --, and once sharpened it works quite nicely. So we are almost done. Probably one more post on this one.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-52957918843082300532016-07-03T19:42:00.000-07:002016-07-03T19:42:54.146-07:00New Shop InhabitantFor several years now I have struggled with <b>HandyBandy</b>, the portable bandsaw which I found abandoned in a pawnshop and which got a new stand, so it served as a cutoff saw. It long since has ceased to work correctly. The blade jumps off the wheels or gets jammed between the thrust bearing and the guides. No matter what you do to the tension. Being, I think, a Harbor Freight saw, all this is not surprising.<br />
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It was time for something new. From the "Little Machine Shop" I ordered a new bandsaw complete with stand.<br />
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It has a really solid stand and an equally solid vise. It fits the table. On its first run, it cut a chunk off an old torque wrench (or breaker bar) handle very nicely. If you look carefully you will see the chunk at the front. Since 99% of all lathe projects begin with a cutoff, this saw is a gem. And it cost no more than a Milwaukee saw of same size at Lowe's, without a stand!<br />
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Our new saw is, of course, named <b>DandyBandy</b>.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-3017251040324315832016-06-19T21:35:00.001-07:002016-06-19T21:35:34.076-07:00A stool pigeonI am getting old. I think I have lived longer than any other venezuelan Rivero. The price you pay is aches and pains. So I can no longer stand at benches for extended periods. Backache, bad stuff. So I decided to make a stool to sit in front of the woodworking bench.<br />
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The first thing is the seat. I planed and edge-glued some scrap 2x6 together to make these, as shown above. At this point, I made a fateful decision. Obviously if the legs go straight down, the stool will be unstable. Legs are splayed out for that reason. So I decided to splay outward in both directions. This is a double bevel. My bevel gauge is at Chalupy, so I had to pause to improvise one out of a hacksaw blade. This is by far the most complicated piece I have ever made, because of the double bevels.<br />
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The next job was to cut out dadoes for the skirts -- reinforcing pieces on the legs. I used my trusty rabbet plane for the purpose, as below. <br />
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I figured that the skirts would fit into mortises cut into the legs. But wait, the legs are splayed! So I had to bevel the bottom of the skirts so that they would splay outward, as well as cut a bevel on the edge. Then came the problem of cutting the double bevels as well as the mortises to accept the tenons. I had to make some holdit jigs as well, to get the angles right.<br />
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Above shows a view of progress to date. Three legs on, one to go.<br />
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Above, you can see the thing from the short side. It looks cockeyed but it isn't really. The whole thing is not square to the bench. Looked on square it is OK. You can see the bevel jigs taped to the legs, and I am using constuction adhesive to stick on the legs. Later I will dowel through. By far the most complicated piece I have ever made. I am sure the power saw boys would have done the single bevel -- but I think they would have to build a special jig to do the double bevel. So far no power tools have been used in this build. More later.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-71393970094917508902016-04-28T20:42:00.002-07:002016-04-28T20:42:35.756-07:00A Laser Centerfinder<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It has been been while since I posted. I have temporarily abandoned the
cutting of the last wheel on the clock, and have been playing in the
shop. I have been looking at laser centerfinders ever since I saw Dan
Gelbart's video, number 18 in the fabrication series. Also <a href="http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/"> Gadgetbuilder's</a> pages have a simple laser centerfinder. Out I went to OfficeMax and bought a laser pointer.</div>
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All these gadgets have a frame holding a cheapie laser pointer, used by presenters. So we cut two slots in a piece of Aluminum. Had to do it in the lathe because the mill is busy. Bigger endmill makes it faster. A 3mm shank is superglued in.<br />
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So I friction-fitted the laser in the drill press, made a pinhole in the paper taped to the drill table with the smallest drill I have, and tried this out. You must adjust the tilt so that the spot is centered over the pinhole. I found out (a) the laser spot is much too big. (b) Any adjustment you make does not stay put. Unacceptable. <br />
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To cure the big spot I made a <i>pinhole </i>from a scrap of soda can. Tried the thing on the mill. Now the spot is just fine, the adjustment still unreliable.<br />
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So we go off and make a frame with screws in it to hold the pointer still. At this point I took a fateful decision and cut dovetails to hold the frame together. It is very difficult to do such small dovetails with a jeweler's saw. <br />
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One day later and having remade one of the joints, I J-B welded the whole thing together. It worked. The pointer stays put. The peephole makes the spot very weak. You can just see the line I drew around the pinhole. Note the adjustment screws. There are three 4-40 screws, you can only see one. <br />
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I now have a working centerfinder. So on to other things. I got interested in <i>soda (or beer) can alcohol stoves</i>. The Internet is full of articles and videos on how to build these things. Mine work. I used Red RTV to seal the cans, could use muffler tape I suppose.<br />
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.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-23188245207474964432016-03-20T21:18:00.000-07:002016-03-20T21:18:53.695-07:00Spring and Springs in AlaskaSo we are a few days away from the vernal equinox, AKA spring. Strangely, I have been working on some projects that involve springs. And we have a surprise ending.<br />
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First we have the spiffy new handle on the dividing head.<br />
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This is a spring loaded plunger that pushes the prong into the dividing head and holds it steady. The plunger is pulled back to go to the next hole on the plate. It took quite a lot of messing around to get it right. I kept getting the spring backwards! I had to change springs several times; my supply of springs is limited. So that is one spring.<br />
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Next idea I had was a vertically adjustable Dremel holder. My first try looked like this:<br />
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The Dremel is held in the chainsaw attachment, already described elsewhere. This worked but it was very sloppy, so I spring-loaded the screws. <br />
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It works a lot better that way. The Dremel tends to lever it because this stuff is all Aluminum form Lowe's. A casting would be much better but I'm not set up for that. Bit too much slop. Have to think about that. As it is it is a hand-held Dremel router. <br />
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Well, that's three springs. While I was at it I clamped the thing to my homemade pantograph.<br />
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This worked surprisingly well. I realize now I have a pantograph with adjustable ratios, depending on where I clamp it. Bonus. It is nice to have a vertical adjustment. I hand-made a set of templates, seen at left. I am holding everything down with two-faced tape. Not ideal, but it works. I m encouraged. Springs are wonderful.<br />
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Finally, "spring" also means a season of the year. The Vernal Equinox is March 21 or 22 depending on a lot of things. This is an astronomical datum. Alaska has its own ideas:<br />
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About 10 cm or 4" snow yesterday. Biggest snow of the year. Of course we were (still are) in the El Nino hotspot. No snow to speak of, until yesterday. A day late and a dollar short. No skiing. But it was nice to have the snow, and a fire welcome. Observe Miss Mocha curled up on her tuffet at the right of the picture. Right out of Currier and Ives.<br />
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And today the temperature went way up, +6C or so I do not expect winter wonderland to last very long. Spring, one way or another, is here.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-30419869554375341562016-03-08T21:21:00.000-08:002016-03-08T21:21:31.198-08:00The 120 tooth saga n the Isaacs clockThe biggest wheel on the Isaacs clock is a 120 tooth monster. As I said before, when I made the pinions I inadvertendly went from module 0.6 to 0.9 and I am unwilling to redo the pinions. I calculated that the biggest wheel on the clock it would fit on the lathe i.e. I could "swing" it. So it did, but this whole 120 tooth "great wheel" is a monster fully up to Godzilla's standards. I calculated that a 120 tooth wheel would fit the lathe. I had no idea how close that calculation was.<br />
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I cut these things out on the bandsaw. Then I turn them down to the exact diameter on the lathe. It is something like (N + 1.76)*M (M is the module and N is the number of teeth, and if anybody is screaming about this remmeber these are cycloidal bears, not involutes). As you can see it clears the little Taig by about 2mm and I had to file it a little to get it to fit!<br />
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Next we need a pair of backing disks for the wheel. I like the kind of board called masonite or its like. It does not matter if it is a lot off-center, its function is to support the wheel in its odyssey on the mill. <br />
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Now my dividing head has a height of 50 mm. Unfortunately at Module 0.9, the radius is about 110mm so I am a bit short. What to do? Why, riser blocks.<br />
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Above 100 tooth wheel for comparison.<br />
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A 100 tooth just barely fits without blocks. So... First I tried putting it on the left side of the mill. Note the riser blocks. Note the clamping. Also note I have not supported the wheel. Two big mistakes in one go. Unsupported Lexan wheels flex and lead at best to inaccurate cuts. At worst to "crunchies" where you wreck the wheel beyond repair. Worse yet, I am "climb milling." the cutter is fed in the same direction as the cutter moves. Sometimes this does not matter. On all the previous wheels it didn't. But this is a huge wheel relative to my equipment. So remove the vise, go to the right side of the mill.<br />
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Much better. Now I am "conventional milling" and the cutter moves opposite to the feed. I am still having problems. Stay tuned. <br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-79984961092891082042016-01-28T20:26:00.001-08:002016-01-28T20:26:28.708-08:00Cutter project II. Getting thereI have been remiss in posting, but other things have interfered. As usual.<br />
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So we continue with making four-tooth cutters. We are getting there, but not quite. Still, progress. I am using 3/4" (20mm) supermanium steel from Lowe's. First step is to turn it round. The exact diameter is not critical. Then we slice off a 5mm slice. Hardest part of the whole thing, because The Taig does not like to part 20mm of steel. Then we put it on the drilling jig, and drill four holes in it. Equally spaced, if our drilling jig is up to snuff. I made on the mill, it better be! Then we mount the slice on the eccentric arbor which I have described previously. Here it is. As you see, one piece of the round sticks out. Exactly what we want.<br />
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Now we proceed to turn a certain amount of material off. I have to watch the dial on the cross-feed very carefully. I mark the dials with a sharpie. What we want is a sort of square, but with rounded sides. We have to rotate the blank 90 deg after the full cut has been taken. After a while we start getting the shape of a square. Again, sharpie keeps me on track. After a series of cuts, we have to unbolt the piece, rotate it 90 degrees, and make some more cuts. The circle of holes go successively into the pin in the eccentric mandrel.<br />
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A closer view. Getting to square. When I get a sharp corner I am done. Now comes the hard part. We have to form the radius at the bottom of the cutter. For this we use a form tool shaped like the radius of the cutter. It is less than 3mm. The form tool is plunged in. But setting it up on center is very difficult. I have since learned about something called the <i>button </i>method, which I intend to try. The Taig has no way to measure transverse feed. Unless you fit the compound. The Taig compound is very flimsy and I don't think it would work. A dial indicator would be great, but nowhere can I fit one in; the lathe is mostly aluminum. So my radii left something to be desired. <br />
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Next we take it over to the mill. I made a fixture -- a square wih a hole dead center -- so I can turn the thing over. Using an abrasive Dremel cutoff disk we "gash" the teeth. I did not get any pix, but it is in the previous episode. In the next pic, I have gashed radially at the corners.<br />
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Then we rotate the piece 45 deg and gash again. One advantage of using the cutoff tool is that your cutter faces are automatically sharpened. You can see one of the teeth pointing at you, one in profile to the right, and even see the relief on the teeth. The relief is the sole reason we went to the eccentric arbor and the holes. Without relief, the cutter won't cut.<br />
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Still have to work on the radius. But this is much better than my previous attempt. Onward.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-84351219615695956152016-01-05T20:36:00.000-08:002016-01-05T20:36:22.221-08:00Emmy the uberviseIn the 1880s and up to the 1960s, a company called Emmert in Pennsylvania made something called a <i>pattenmaker's vise</i>. Patthernmakers were skilled woodworkers who made wooden patterns for sand-casting the many contraptions of the Great Industrial Era, anything from engine blocks to locomotives. They required vises that would hold workpieces in the most awkward of positions. Unfortunately patternmaking has given way to die-casting and we no longer make locomotives. so Emmert went out of business. Today an Emmert vise fetches $800 and up in the used-tool market. Too much for me.<br />
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Fortunately someone in Taiwan is making copies of the Emmert vise. They offered free shipping. So I got one.<br />
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Installing an Emmert vise requires major surgery to your workbench. Mine, double that, because the front is a 4x8 that I found derelict on a beach in Juneau. Below, I have made the major cutouts. All with hand tools. There is at least one YouTube movie that tells you how to do this, and the manufacturer's insturctions are amazingly clear. And, I may add, in English.<br />
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Then I had to remake the mounting hardware because the manufacturer thought I'd have at most a 3" depth. When that was done, we have Ueber-vise, whose name is of course <b>Emmy</b>, in position.<br />
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Emmy will swivel 360, tilt to any angle, and skew to accomodate tapered pieces. Further she has a metalworking vise underneath, (rotate 180 to get it), and in short is a supreme vise. I will not show the underneath beacuse it was an ordeal to install. But I am sure Emmy will be the star of many an upcoming post.<br />
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Fun to work with wood for a change.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-40613940926376232772015-12-16T20:59:00.001-08:002015-12-16T20:59:32.193-08:00The cutter project (really part of the clock)As I may have said, I got tired of cutting gears. This requires so much concentration that I wanted a vacation. So I have undertaken two new projects. One is to install my (Taiwanese) Emmert vise on the woodworking workbench. The other, which goes back a while, is to make mutipoint clock gear cutters. The first project is a future post. This post deals with making clock wheel (gear) cutters.<br />
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Now gears come in two major flavors. One is the <i>involute</i> form found every mechanical contraption that uses gears. The other is the <i>cycloidal </i>form, found almost exclusively in clocks. The involutes are better at transmitting power. The cycloidals have less friction, and so are favored in clocks.<br />
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Gears of any flavor are cut by (guess what) cutters. You can buy these things. They are expensive. Not only that, and mainly, none of them will fit my Proxxon micromill. So I am making my own. The main requirement is that I have to fit them to Cecil B. de Mille, my mill.<br />
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In making these cutters I am basically following <a href="http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/multipoint/multipoint.html">Dean's writeup. </a> All cutters need relief. Just like a kitchen knife. It is difficult to slice anything unless your knife is curved. That's relief. The edge does not drag once the nain part goes through. If you really want to make cutters, you must read this writeup.<br />
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The way we do this is to build an eccentric arbor. This provides the relief.<br />
But first we have to turn a wheel blank. I started out with the idea of turning it to fit the Proxxon 3mm collet. <br />
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Nice idea. But for various reasons it did not work, so plan B. We will make disks, and turn them on an eccentric arbor, but my eccentric arbor is much smaller an Dean's device. An eccentric arbor is a cylinder, but with the center (a 6-32 screw) offset from the true center by 4mm. In the real center is a broken drill bit about 2mm in diameter. Very small. It is an anti-rotation and indexing pin. <br />
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Next step is to drill four holes in a cutter blank. The holes form a square 4mm to a side. Dean & co. suggest making a drilling jig. I did the first one on the mill. Afterward I did a proper drilling jig, because drilling holes on the mill by plunging is like dentistry. Painful. I used my handy setup plate in the mill vise. You can barely see the blank.<br />
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So with four holes in the blank, pick one, put the center hole into the screw, put one hole in the pin, and you have the setup below. It looks off-center, does it not? It is. It is supposed to be. When we put the whole megilla into the lathe, we will turn sort of a square with round sides.<br />
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When you are doing this you have to be very careful with the depth of cut. I experimented with setting up dial indicators to do this.<br />
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Impossible. They don't make them small enough, and I have no room to fit everything in. So I made a <i>stop</i>. It took a day, well worth it.<br />
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The stop is a dovetail that fits the ways of the Taig, an has a screw for fine adjustment, unfortunately a 6-32 screw because it is difficult to find metric screws this small (about 5mm) this small in Alaska.<br />
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Next job is to make a radius forming tool. This tool will form the radius (which has to be exact). I had not reckoned with Lowe's 3/4" "mild steel." It is made out of supermanium. I think Lowe's supplier slipped up that day, and threw in a round bar made out of Titanium SuperSteel, because I made this tool out of Dremel shanks, which I know can be hardened. <br />
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Now we mount this in the middle of a square .25" bar and mill off exactly half of the tool, leaving a very sharp edge. We did this on the mill. Note the gear sitting to the left. It's the one I haven't completed. We use this tool to form the radii on the cutter. Then we use this tool to cut the radii. The first few radius tools I made were eaten up by the Lowe's Supermanium. I finally resorted to a broken Proxxon endmill. Teutonic technology proved superior to supermanium. I got a radius, Crude, but good enough for practice purposes. Now let's cut off the waste. Dean et al. use a slitting saw, but I used a Dremel abrasive cutoff disk mounted on the mill. <br />
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This has the great advantage. You don't have to grind the cutter; the cutoff does it for you. My finished cutter has two good teeth on it, the others were ruined by stupid mistakes.<br />
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I have learned a lot from this. I think I can make my own cutters now. More to come. Pic of cutter bit blurry, new camera. Will improve.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-65038973562262374172015-12-01T20:53:00.000-08:002015-12-01T20:53:01.511-08:00Onwards with wheel cutting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In the saga of the Isaacs clock , we now go on to the big wheels. There are two 96-tooth wheels, and (I think) a 100 or maybe a 120 tooth wheel, the latter in extreme range of what I can turn on the lathe. I am now making the wheels out of Lexxan instead of acrylic. Acrylic shatters too easily. With our homemade fly cutter it was possible to cut the first 96-tooth gear. Note the masonite backup disk on the wheel, this helps damp out the cutting shock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0IvzHZsIhDvWfoyuwkD0bajhLcGCRLGnkPYst0iPgGNRRRIKINuTTXBOcRBFJgpGZ2wRXpwhR_8UObHPzTfgBUOUoyUcLrQQqkwqGnL9qpivfFLVNV6MSo88l_H3kMUdRQ7rJIGelDRx/s1600/DSCN0112.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0IvzHZsIhDvWfoyuwkD0bajhLcGCRLGnkPYst0iPgGNRRRIKINuTTXBOcRBFJgpGZ2wRXpwhR_8UObHPzTfgBUOUoyUcLrQQqkwqGnL9qpivfFLVNV6MSo88l_H3kMUdRQ7rJIGelDRx/s320/DSCN0112.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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So on to the second one. First step is to turn the blank. I try to do a spare, but it is not a good idea to turn them together because the turning process tends to melt the Lexxan and then you have two welded wheels, which is not a happy situation.<br />
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So this gear was (still is) mounted on the dividing head, and I have cut about 8 teeth, but gear cutting is an absolutely frustrating situation and you should only do it when you are wide awake and capable of extreme concentration. So I decided to take a break, and the disadvantage of this is that I will have to "pick up" the cut. So I have only half of the mill available. <br />
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Then I decided to take a break. I would make a multi-point cutter. Comercial cutters are made with very large holes. Maybe 7mm. My mill takes a 3mm arbor. So the cutters are a saga all by itself, which will be the subject of the next post.<br />
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Cutter-making requires an <i>eccentric arbor</i>. I will explain this more fully in the next post, but it involves turning off-center. But here's a shot of the making of the arbor, in case I forget to include it in the next post.<br />
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It has taken a week to get this thing up, thanks to Google for their user-friendly (hostile) interface with blogger. Sorry.<br />
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and one 100-tooth wheel. The 100 toother is going to be a real deal.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-63724449193049708392015-11-04T20:24:00.001-08:002015-11-04T20:24:40.749-08:00A pantographic interlude, v0.1The gear cutting business has gotten to me and I have laid it aside for a while, since the concentration required is a bit much. So I have started two new new projects. One is the gear cutter (more later I hope) and the other is Pantograph 0.1.<br />
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You will remember (or maybe not) the pantograph from another episode; the label is "pantograph." It was a crude thing, inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter (look up his channel on YouTube). It was a sub-prototype. It was made of masonite, with expired Dremel tools as pivots. Call it v0.0.<br />
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This thing will give you 2:1, 4.1 and one other ratio, something like 1:37:1.<br />
I got that idea from Guy Lautard, "Machinist's Bedside Reader" which you can look up.<br />
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I used sharpies for 0.0. But all that would do is paper. I'd like to do metal. <br />
So it is time for a new version, 0.1. For this I used steel arms; the pivots are bolts, and just to start I used nuts on the bolts. But there is a new requirement. It has to accept a Dremel tool.<br />
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A Dremel tool has a threaded nose that can be attached to other things. Unfortunately this thread is M19x2, and it is hard to produce such a thread, although if you had a screwcutting lathe you could make your own tap. Fortunately Dremel makes a chainsaw sharpener kit (awful, I tried it) but the adapter works perfectly well, M19x2. So here is the skeleton of V0.1:<br />
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The arms are steel strap except the lower crosspiece which is aluminum. A piece of Al angle supports the chainsaw adapter, the thing on the middle of the aluminum bar. The pivots are now bolts and nuts, although that will change. Here it is assembled, complete with workholder arrangement. (The crossbars and a couple of wedges). I am trying to engrave a piece of Ally scrap.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYglP07_ZWYs-BBtbDyF7BWmLKA1pLz0GMso1y-MliihyphenhyphenvYb4gYkgNMi5pKrK9QWT_iJqWsKAKycFgEbEum213cDHVYbLPcd0ejgH9S-PSe9RPUfHDoRStTiZ0VI5L9BwX-J9fgIeRQWs/s1600/DSCN0119.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYglP07_ZWYs-BBtbDyF7BWmLKA1pLz0GMso1y-MliihyphenhyphenvYb4gYkgNMi5pKrK9QWT_iJqWsKAKycFgEbEum213cDHVYbLPcd0ejgH9S-PSe9RPUfHDoRStTiZ0VI5L9BwX-J9fgIeRQWs/s320/DSCN0119.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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There are several problems with this setup. The workholding needs improvement. Maybe threaded inserts and toe clamps. The board is much too short, easily fixed. The worst problem is depth adjustment on the dremel. Too little depth and it won't cut at all. Too much and it digs in and won't cut either. I have slots cut in the angle support but that is cumbersome to adjust. I am pondering this one -- it is not trivial. A screw adjustment would be ideal and then I would have a cross between a mill and a pantograph. I could mill out odd shapes just like Stefan Gotteswinter does. We will see.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-88486765185897215712015-10-13T20:26:00.002-07:002015-10-13T20:26:38.299-07:00Divide and conquer. Maybe.<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Well, it has been a while and I have not posted. Life gets in the way. In the last post I had tracked my wheel (gear) cutting problems down to to bent shaft in the dividing head. Since the dividing head is a Topsy project (she just growed) this is a retrofit and rather difficult.Below, I am checking the runout on one of the wheels. Just as large as ever it was, a whole mm. Nothing new. Nothing for it but to remake the shaft. Turning it is easy, but..</blockquote>
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Thing about the shaft is the dimensions. One end has to fit the gear. That is 5mm right on the money; the printer I took apart to get these gears is that dimension. The other end has to be a duplicate of the Proxxon mill spindle. This is M8x0.75, also metric. So I remade the shaft. Here it is, parted off. Note I am using both my homemade steady rest and a Dremel tool to part off the 5mm end. This gives a nice clean cut and wil not distort the shaft. I claim a new parting-off method.<br />
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Now, the big job is to put a front support on the shaft. For this I used a piece of my lovely Aluminum block that I ordered from the Internet.<br />
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The problem is that I have to bore the 8mm hole exactly in line with the original 5mm hole in the rear. Lacking a jig borer (they cost a fortune) I used a transfer punch, and the above lashup shows how I got it done.<br />
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A runout check shows that I am down to a runout of .30 mm or so. Not really good enough but better than the full mm I had to begin with. What I will have to do is to watch my depth of cut. The wheel is perfectly round as the lathe can get it; the dividing head has a wobble! By varying the depth of cut, maybe I can compensate for this. So the setup looks like this:<br />
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The dividing head is bolted to the mill table and "trammed" i.e squared to the table. In the mill spindle is my homemade fly cutter. Let's try a 50 tooth wheel, I have two of them to do. Result:<br />
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Eureka! I have a wheel. It was like pulling teeth. Literally. One mistake and the whole wheel is trash. And I made lots of mistakes. Acrylic is totally unforgiving of mistakes, say forgetting to lock the dividing head. It explodes. So I have switched to Lexan, much more resilient.<br />
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In the next episode we will cut the big wheels. <br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-69355133582968092502015-09-27T20:53:00.001-07:002015-09-27T20:53:20.836-07:00Termination dust, 2015I see I have already posted on this phenomenon before, because I have created a label for "termination dust." In order to save you the trouble of searching this blog for that label, I will repeat myself, as Walt Whitman did indeed say.<br />
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In the old days, when a prospector's claim ran out, he would start getting dust instead of nuggets in his pan (or whatever system he was using), and this was <i>termination dust</i>. Claim done. So nature gives us a similar signal" summer done.<br />
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Unfortunately my zoom feature has ceased. I fear my camera has therefore deceased too. Well, out on the back porch, we can just see dawn, and snow dust on the Chugach range. But there it is. The Fireweed has folded up. The birches turn yellow. Winter is upon us. Part of the fun of living in Alaska. Here in suburbia I can't go out and cut firewood. But we must accept change. The year wheels.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-1792056509306568852015-09-06T21:11:00.000-07:002015-09-06T21:11:21.098-07:00Dividing head woesThings have been very awry. My clock wheels are in trouble. Fortunately they are acrylic, or I would be out a fortune. Problem is that while some of the teeth look fine, others have flat tops. After pondering this one for a while I finally came to the conclusion that the dividing head is <i>running out</i>. This means it isn't centered. It is wobbling. So let's check.<br />
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Observe my new elegant mini-dial indicator holder. It will hold both my Imperial supersensitive indicator (shown above) and a conventional DTI. It is being used to record the runout (wobble) on the wheel, which is is on a mandrel (shaft) held in a collet. These are my wonderful ER collets. They have essentially zero wobble.<br />
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'Nother shot same thing, same results. Runout about .002" or about 4 "cents" (.04mm). Uh-oh. The wheel is quite acceptable for clockwork. Time to check the runout on the shaft of the dividing head. This is quite a production. The dividing head is mounted on the mill. This, except for the base, is made of non-ferrous metal, and the indicator base will not adhere. So I had left the vise on the mill. In it I clamped a piece of angle iron, aand the dial indicator will adhere to that! So by now I had acquired a metric dial indicator, and checked the runout again. Horrors. A whole millimeter!<br />
The runout is all in the shaft of the dividing head.<br />
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Then I took the dividing head apart and checked its shaft. It needed no dail indicator to show it was bent. So I made a new one. I used my steady rest to hold things still. Here I am, parting offf the result. I claim a new method of parting off. I use my Dremel tool holder, one of the very fragile cutoff wheels, and spin the lathe one way and the work i t'other. Got a nice clean part, and a very narrow kerf.<br />
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So the next thing was to do something about this. It is a very small dividing head, so my next idea was to add a new outboard support. It is an aluminum block. Here it is under construction.<br />
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The results on divde head 2.0 are not encouraging. I measure the runout on the new spindle:<br />
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It still comes to 30 cents. While better than a whole dollar it is not very good. Impasse. While I am figuring out what do do about this, I added a new feature to <b>Cecil B. de Mille</b>. Behold my Z-axis Digital Readout.<br />
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Just a super-cheap digital plastic caliper, a bit of angle aluminum, and some drill and tap, and now I know where my Z-axis is. Of course I can always use the dials. But the Count himself (on Sesame Street) would get confused by the number of turns you made. And one turn off is a whole millimeter off. Worthwhile addition. <br />
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<span id="goog_751201627"></span><span id="goog_751201628"></span><br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-43328339705058549312015-08-23T20:38:00.000-07:002015-08-23T20:38:11.117-07:00Big wheels on a small latheNo matter how large a lathe you have, sooner or later you will come up with something too bigto turn. When I went to module 0.9 on the clock, I calculated the size of the biggest wheel and found I could swing it (that is, get it on the lathe without colliding with the bed). So I said, let us go ahead and do this thing with module 0.9. The following picture is the 50 tooth gears made so far. None of them are stellar. So we foresee problems ahead.<br />
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First thing was to cut the blanks out for the midsize wheels. I did this on the bandsaw. The first thing I did was to cut out masonite-type board slightly smaller than than the gear itself. When I put it on the lathe, it was very obvious that the regular toolpost was not going to reach to the rim and cut it. Impasse. Next morning I started designing a fixture that would move the toolpost -- and realized as I did I already had one, the compound slide. The Taig compound is very flimsy, so I usually don't use it unless I have to cut tapers. So up with the compound and success:<br />
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plus I have an extra 25 mm (1") by moving the tool to the outside groove.<br />
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So the last problem was to make a new dividing head plate. I did this my usual way, with my PostScript program. I used my optical center punch. Then off to the drill press. Just to make sure everything was centered, I used a fixture.<br />
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Then I put the dividing head back together and tried some more 50 tooth blanks. None of them were stellar either. There is something wrong with the dividing head. But that will wait until the next episode. JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-33527606398640393042015-08-09T20:21:00.000-07:002015-08-09T20:21:14.485-07:00Change of pace: this year's gardenOne of the problems of living in suburbia is the lack of space to put in a garden. Another, for me, was the less than sterling health. But I seem to be unable to live without planting something. So this year, willy-nilly, I put a garden on the back porch.<br />
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Front to back, we have radishes, spinach, mesclun (lettuce mix), red leaf lettuce and tomatoes. We have aready picked some of them and they are delicious. <br />
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As you see the tomatoes are actually tomatoing. I am not sure they will ripen. But they are certainly happy, and that is what counts.<br />
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I suppose I am a farmer at heart.I like to grow things you can eat. Even if my farm is now the back porch, and wait til next year when I will get some more real estate. It is now container gardening time.<br />
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We will return to our regularly shceduled clockmaking drama in the next episode.<br />
<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-28434319271026690282015-07-28T20:37:00.001-07:002015-07-28T20:37:42.391-07:00Life at module 0.9In the last episode, we nade some lantern pinions. Measurement revealed that they were actually module 0.9. So this is really a blessing. Since I am making my own cutters, the larger module will be easier to work with. So I am now embarking on the process of cutting the wheels. The first problem is to make the cutter. I use Dremel 3mm tool shanks from expended Dremel tool cutters. Cheap, and they are good steel. they can be hardened and tempered. I am making a fly cutter, a one-point cutting tool.<br />
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Now a fly cutter does not actually cut teeth. What it does is cut the space between teeth. A clock tooth is supposed to have a cycloidal profile. This is the profile generated by a circle rolling on another circle. Yuk. However, this is approximated by a straight cut with a "rounded over" circular radius at the tip. The radius is something like 1.7 mm at module 0.9.<br />
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So as a first task I made a button gauge.<br />
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I turned down a piece of steel to the proper radius, say 1.7 mm. I am too tired to go consult my notes in the shop. I drilled two holes the proper distance apart. This was done on the mill, you could never hit it by eye. The button gauge will be used see if I am on target with the radius. There is the problem of depth of cut, but if I overdo this I can always grind it off. Off to the mill.<br />
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Here we have an expended Dremel shaft put into a homemade fixture, a piece of square stock with a setscrew to hold it in place. The fixture is clamped in the mill vise.<br />
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I have available 3mm, 2mm, and 1mm. end mills. These are diameters. Hmm. If I were to cut 1.7 radius I would need a 3.4 mm cutter. Unicorn. Uncomfortable. But the 3mm guy will go 1.5 mm aand for now that will do. It is quite difficult to center up the cutter. But above you see it taking shape. So I did this. Now we heat it up red hot and quench. This will harden the steel.<br />
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I use my handy furnace and water-quench, and then temper, a difficult job on a piece smaller than your little fingernail.<br />
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Having done this, we take a test cut on a leftover blank we happen to have. The diameter is completly off, we just want to see if the cutter works at all.<br />
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So I mount this random blank on the dividing head and cut a few teeth. The diameter is wacky. But it does work -- i.e. it cuts teeth. Spacing all wrong of course.<br />
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Next step is to turn up a proper blank on the lathe. I cut them out on the bandsaw. The scrollsaw would be better, but it melts the plastic so the bandsaw wins.<br />
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Now we can cut teeth properly. I did a whole bunch of them. There are so many errors you can make. You can forget to tighten the dividing head, for instance. This will chew the blank. You can forget to loosen the dividing head, which will mean slippage in the gear train. Maybe I should loctite the worm. But I don't want to do this yet.<br />
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Anyway, at the end of several days work, I came up with some wheels.<br />
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The leftmost wheel is complete chowder, as Tom Lipton would say. As we go left to right, we see gradual improvement, as I correct my mistakes, so the rightmost wheel is almost usable. But there are two problems. The tooth profile is off. Also the spacing is irregular. The tooth widths vary. This is a problem with my homemade dividing plate. In the next episode we del with these problems. <br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-49889452500727715852015-07-12T21:12:00.001-07:002015-07-12T21:12:09.293-07:00The saga of the lantern pinionsIn a clock, the gears that convert the movement of the pendulum to the movement of the hands are of two types. If the gear has 12 teeth or less it is called a <i>pinion.</i> If it has more than that, it is called a <i>wheel</i>. The Isaacs clock has 8 toothed gears for the pinions and other numbers for the wheels. Pinions are small fiddly things, about 6mm diameter. That's about 1/4" for the metrically challenged. Now there are several ways of doing pinions. First is to buy a commercial pinion cutter. Messrs. Thornton in England will sell you one, at what I consider an exorbitant price, 40 quid or about $80. Second, make tour own pinion cutter. I am really challenged here, because my mill is a real micro. The largest collet it will take is 3.2 mm (1/8") so the 7mm diameter of the hole in Messrs. Thornton's cutters is far too big for my tiny Proxxon mill. Second, make your own cutter. I looked a lot into this and they are quite a complex problem -- again because I have such a tiny mill. I will deal with this some other day. I can do it, I think, but I will have to rescale a lot of things. <br />
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The third way is to make<i> lantern pinions</i> and this is what I did. Essentially a lantern pinion is a very small hamster cage. It is two circles for the side of the cage, and 8 bars to the cage. Eight bars work out conveniently to 45 degrees at a side.<br />
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So I made up a wheel divided into 45 degree increments. A production, but possible. I then used my aformentioned Dremel tool holder to drill the 8 holes. Simple, eh? Not really. First I had to make a <i>mandrel</i>, a shaft that fits into my "crocodile," the ER-16 collet on my Taig. I threaded it US 4-40 because that is the smallest tap and die set I own, about 2.4 mm. Then I had to make a special nut to fit the 4-40 thread and not interfere with the boring of the holes. A standard 4-40 nut is too big. The diameter of the hamster cage is 6.1 mm at module 0.6.<br />
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So now we turn up a bunch of hamster cage circles to the proper diameter, which is about 12mm. This can be done en masse, four sides at once. Then I laboriously cut up some <i>music wire</i> into cage bars. Regardless of its name, music wire has nothing to do with music, and worse, it is often called piano wire, although it has little or nothing to do with pianos.<br />
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The first result is shown above. It is a valid lantern pinion. It is sitting on top of a ski wax container. I use the ski wax on bandsaw blades and it really helps. <br />
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Now I made up an index stop out of an old saw blade and a broken Dremel mini-drill. I have lots of those, they are are very easy to break. The ones I am using are about 0.7 mm but unfortunately the wire is 0,77 mm.<br />
The index stop is saw blade attached to a magnet., super-glued to the saw blade. I works.<br />
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And fortunately, looking through my supplies, I found a wire (from Michael's) same gauge as the music wire, slightly less stiff, and far less expensive. And much more obtainable. I have bought out Lowe's supply.<br />
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So here is the final <i>mise en scene </i>(forgive the lack of a grave accent). These are the tools I used to make 9 lantern pinions. I should only need 7, but better safe than sorry. There are pliers, of course. Then is my Archimedes drill. This has a piece of music wire in it, which is used as a drill/reamer to bring the holes in the cages to final size. It was quite a feat to grind that thing properly so that it would actually drill. <br />
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There is an 8mm wrench that belongs to the mill. I use it to cinch up the <i>pin vise</i>, the invaluable object on the right, which holds the wire while you get it through the holes. Sitting in the pin vise is the last of the hamster cages.<br />
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When it was all over I measured the diameter of the pins in the cage. It was supposed to be 6.11 mm and came out to 7.7mm. Ouch! This is a major blunder. A real Bozo, as Tom Lipton would say. However I think it is a blessing disguised as a blunder. I worked out what the module actually is, and is 0.9 instead of 0.6. I think this module will be much easier to work with. Of course I will be into a redesign of the clock because the spacings will be different from the plans. But since I can calculate all of this, the redesign will not be too bad a deal. I can still swing the biggest wheel on the Taig. Stay tuned.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-60803725129265285532015-07-05T20:44:00.000-07:002015-07-05T20:44:35.109-07:00A bookcase for the shopIt ocurred to me that it would be an excellent idea to have a bookcase in the shop. I have some books to which I often refer. Notice that I did not end a sentence with a preposition. Notice that it sounds clumsy to modern ears. Anyway, I was inspired by Paul Seller's work. If you search for him, you will find everything. But Paul's YouTube videos deal with hand tools only. Just my ticket. So I went to Home Depot (by accident, because I was looking for somehing else) and found a nice piece of cedar, sold as fencing and very cheap. About $1.69 as I recall. I decided I would use it as a bookcase and as a box for my dividing head. I lopped off what I needed for the case and that left me with some cedar. I planed it off, an excellent cardio exercise. So I want a dovetail case.<br />
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I realized ex post facto that I should have done this backwards. You see above I am cutting pins in the uprights, Should have cut the tails instead. Simply a matter of appearance, joint is the same. One of Mr Seller's most interesting ideas is that of the "knife wall" and it did manage that correctly. When it came to putting it together it was another thing, I erred. Still, it came out all right. Not perfect. But 'twill suffice. Hand tools only for this thing. <br />
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So now it holds my essential references, and I am happy with that.<br />
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Back to the clock, but that was a pleasant interlude.Coming next: making lantern pinions for the clock,<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-43997486756414766672015-06-16T20:58:00.001-07:002015-06-16T20:58:59.140-07:00The .444 Magnum Oscillating EngineI got tired of cutting clock wheeels and badly needed a vactaion sooo....<br />
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One of the first projects the beginning "model Engineer" does is an oscillating engine. These are very simple engines, where the cylinder oscillates back and forth to expose the intake and exhaust ports. A complete video of a build of an "Ossie" (as these things are called) engine will be found on <i>Emma Ritson</i>'s channel on YouTube, if you want to see a blow-by-blow description.<br />
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What had been holding me up was the lack of suitable material to build the cylinder. But I found, still at Chalupy (which has probably burned to the ground by now, there is huge forest fire there) an expended .444 Marlin cartridge case. This is cylindrical, no necking at all, so it seemed like a possible candidate. A test with calipers yields 10.47 mm and the drawings call for 10mm. Close enough. In this build I have followed Mr Stan Bray's book, "Simple Steam Engines" and I must say both the words and the music (drawings and instructions) leave something to be desired.<br />
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Anyway, while I was at it I built a finger plate. This is a gadget to hold things down while you drill or otherwise machine them. It is a piece of aluminum with holes drilled in them. I got the idea from<i> Clickspring</i>'s Channel on YouTube. It has a 45 deg groove in it, which I did by tilting the block 45 deg in the vise and using an end mill. <br />
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So, a bit of Aluminum later, we have a finger block.<br />
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Next thing to so is to mark put the port face, which will be soldered to the cylinder. [In retrospect, I should have not done this. I should have bored out the cylinder and made the piston fit it. I also should have drilled the pivot, but not the port hole. I plead just following directions in the book.]<br />
You see the finger plate in action.<br />
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So next we solder the cylinder to the port block. This went very well.<br />
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I turned a rod out of a Dremel tool shank. These need to be turned down to 3mm and threaded. They are around 3.2 mm so it is delicate. The only 3mm tap and die set I have happens to be M3x0.5 so that's what it got. Both ends. This is the pivot shaft; the pivot will rock about this.<br />
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Next job is the frame. I took some pains to line it up. It is very fortunate that Ossies are very forgiving.<br />
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Then I drilled the port hole intake and exhaust ports. They are tiny, about 1.5 mm. Then I made some more little fiddly parts (go see Emma's video) And then I discovered the holes would not line up. In fact the piston would not go in all the way. I soldered the original port block hole up.<br />
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So I had to bore out the cylinder. Of course. It is an expended cartridge. Who knows what egg-shaped sections lurk in the heart of an expended cartridge? Had I done this in the first place, I would have saved a lot of time. In a limp excuse, brass is unobtainium in Alaska, except for cartridger, expended of course. The problem was indicating it. Because the port block has already been soldered I canonly indicate 2/3 of the diameter. I put up the 4-jaw chuck and did what I could. <br />
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So I turned a piston and voila, Marlon the .444 Magnum repurposed.<br />
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Still not right. Of course. The original called for a much thicker port block than I have. The piston was too short and the port holes would not line up. So I turned a new piston. Here is Version 0.2.<br />
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BTW Cecil B. De Mille is excellent for spacing accurately placed holes.<br />
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Today I drilled the hole in the port block. It seems to work.<br />
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So here we are. I will return, I hope.<br />
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<br />JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-48609347469224652502015-05-17T20:49:00.002-07:002015-05-17T20:50:22.264-07:00Dividing head contiuedThe last post (sorry for the delay) showed the head mounted on the mill. This immediately showed a number of faults in the construction. One obvious one is that the slots in the head weren't long enough for the bigger gears in this clock. So take the head apart, and back to the mill. Make those slots longer. First to port...<br />
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and then to starboard.<br />
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So now we have the slots to proper size. A far worse problem was that the bearing of the gear wobbled. This was major surgery. I pressed the gear off the shaft. I turned it down to 5mm, because I just so happen to have an M5x0.80 tap and die. Thread the shaft in the lathe, make up a corresponding nut. Ideally it would be knurled, but I don't have knurling tool. So I cut longitudinal grooves in the nut, and it worked very well. You can see the nut in the picture below. Middle of the picture. If it is tightened down, the gear will not move. I suppose the worm slips on its shaft. Urk. But it sure squares up the gear.<br />
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Another view from the business end of the device, my Proxxon spindle knock-off.<br />
In practice the gear is held on a fixture which I turned up. It has a 3.2 mm spindle, i.e 1/8" spindle. I had to turn up a similar fixture to hold the fly cutter I propose to use. I think it may have made its appearance in a previous post. It fits the 3mm Proxxon collet. <br />
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Well. I can't put this off any longer. Some previous experiments showed me that my fly-cutter was way off. But there are many variables. So let's try an official gear blank. I have tried power tools but they melt the plastic I am using. So back to the Jeweler's saw. This is a piece of plastic about 3mm thick frome Home Depot at the stunning cost of $3. I doubt that anywhere in Alaska could I find the "compo brass" called out for this clock.<br />
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Having roughed out the blanks with a saw, they are turned to the proper diameter on the lathe.<br />
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I am using my new ER-16 collet set, which I call the <b>crocodiles</b>, because they really, really grip. Goodbye, wimpy Taig collets. The new Taigs are bored out to accept ER-16 collets. OK, so we set this stuff up on the mill and proceed to cut gears.<br />
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Hah! Not so simple a job as you might think. You have to (a) <i>unlock</i> the spindle (b) <i>rotate</i> the head the proper amount, (c) <i>lock </i>everything down, (d) move the Y axis of the mill in 1.74 mm to cut the tooth. If you do not execute these steps in exactly that order, disaster is sure to follow. I am so glad I am using el cheapo plastic instead of brass! It is particularly important to remember when to lock and unlock the head.<br />
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My gears so far are a disaster. But we are now down to the profile of the fly-cutter. Today I made a gadget to help me judge that. But that's another post. Patience is the prime virtue of clockmaking. Just for fun I point out that the module of these gears is called out to be 0.6, which gives you a rough idea of the scale of this thing. Half a millimeter per tooth! Acually pi times that. It is a small clock indeed. So small errors are hard to avoid.<br />
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Stay tuned for further adventures in gear-cutting. JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1668460024581302839.post-70007412828273320972015-04-29T20:56:00.000-07:002015-04-29T20:56:21.135-07:00The romantic tale: mill meets dividing head.In this episode, we put the dividing head together. Some fancy milling was involved getting the worm shaft support to match with the tilted arm, but it got done. I spring-loaded the sector arms and they work fine. There is a collar that is pressed on to the crank arm, held down with a setscrew.. <br />
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You will see that I have not cut off the worm shaft yet. No matter, will do that later. The thing to do is now to bolt the thing to the mill and see if it fits. <b>Cecil,</b> meet Ms. <b>Head. </b>Now the question is, does it fit? Is this true love?<br />
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Well, pretty much. There is enough clearance, the plates do not scrape on the table. But as in all romances, there are some rough spots. We can see this in the following picture. I have installed a fly-cutter in the mill to illustrate the problem: the Y-axis travel is insufficient. I could cut the 30-tooth gears with this setup, the diameter is but 30 mm or so. But the bigger gears will give me a problem. The biggest gear in this clock is 90 mm diameter, if I remember correctly. I cannot move the Y axis back any further. I will have to think about this, so stay tuned for more romantic tales.<br />
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But I am quite pleased. I have actually built a dividing head that fits my mill.JRChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09225789329293174703noreply@blogger.com0