A pantographic interlude, v0.1

The gear cutting business has gotten to me and I have laid it aside for a while, since the concentration required is a bit much. So I have started two new new projects. One is the gear cutter (more later I hope) and the other is Pantograph 0.1.

You will remember (or maybe not) the pantograph from another episode; the label is "pantograph."  It was a crude thing, inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter (look up his channel on YouTube). It was a sub-prototype. It was made of masonite, with expired Dremel tools as pivots. Call it v0.0.

This thing will give you 2:1, 4.1 and one other ratio, something like 1:37:1.
I got that idea from Guy Lautard, "Machinist's Bedside Reader" which you can look up.

I used sharpies for 0.0. But all that would do is paper. I'd like to do metal.
So  it is time for a new version, 0.1.  For this I used steel arms; the pivots are bolts, and just to start I used nuts on the bolts. But there is a new requirement. It has to accept a Dremel tool.

A Dremel tool has a threaded nose that can be attached to other things.  Unfortunately this thread is M19x2, and it is hard to produce such a thread, although if you had a screwcutting lathe you could make your own tap. Fortunately Dremel makes a chainsaw sharpener kit (awful, I tried it) but the adapter works perfectly well, M19x2. So  here is the skeleton of V0.1:

The arms are steel strap except the lower crosspiece which is aluminum. A piece of Al angle supports the chainsaw adapter, the thing on the middle of the aluminum bar. The pivots are now bolts and nuts, although that will change. Here  it is assembled, complete with workholder arrangement. (The crossbars and a couple of wedges). I am trying to engrave a piece of Ally scrap.



There are several problems with this setup. The workholding needs improvement. Maybe threaded inserts and toe clamps. The board is much too short, easily fixed. The worst problem is depth adjustment on the dremel. Too little depth and it won't cut at all. Too much and it digs in and won't cut either. I have slots cut in the angle support but that is cumbersome to adjust. I am pondering this one -- it is not trivial. A screw adjustment would be ideal and then I would have a cross between a mill and a pantograph. I could mill out odd shapes just like Stefan Gotteswinter does. We will see.

Divide and conquer. Maybe.

Well, it has been a while and I have not posted. Life gets in the way. In the last post I had tracked my wheel (gear) cutting problems down to to bent shaft in the dividing head. Since the dividing head is a Topsy project (she just growed) this is a retrofit and rather difficult.Below, I am checking the runout on one of the wheels. Just as large as ever it was, a whole mm. Nothing new. Nothing for it but to remake the shaft. Turning it is easy, but..

Thing about the shaft is the dimensions. One end has to fit the gear. That is 5mm right on the money; the printer I took apart to get these gears is that dimension. The other end has to be a duplicate of the Proxxon mill spindle. This is M8x0.75, also metric. So I remade the shaft. Here it is, parted off. Note I am using both my homemade steady rest and a Dremel tool to part off the 5mm end. This gives a nice clean cut and wil not distort the shaft. I claim a new parting-off method.

Now, the big job is to put a front support on the shaft. For this I used a piece of my lovely Aluminum block that I ordered from the Internet.

 The problem is that I have to bore the 8mm hole exactly in line with the original 5mm hole in the rear. Lacking a jig borer (they cost a fortune) I used a transfer punch, and the above lashup shows how I got it done.

A runout check shows that I am down to a runout of .30 mm or so. Not really good enough but better than the full mm I had to begin with. What I will have to do is to watch my depth of cut. The wheel is perfectly round as the lathe can get it; the dividing head has a wobble! By varying the depth of cut, maybe I can compensate for this. So the setup looks like this:

 The dividing head is bolted to the mill table and "trammed" i.e squared to the table. In the mill spindle is my homemade fly cutter.  Let's try a 50 tooth wheel, I have two of them to do. Result:

Eureka! I have a wheel. It was like pulling teeth. Literally. One mistake and the whole wheel is trash. And I made lots of mistakes. Acrylic is totally unforgiving of mistakes, say forgetting to lock the dividing head. It explodes.  So I have switched to Lexan, much more resilient.

In the next episode we will cut the big wheels.

Termination dust, 2015

I see I have already posted on this phenomenon before, because I have created a label for "termination dust." In order to save you the trouble of searching this blog for that label, I will repeat myself, as Walt Whitman did indeed say.

In the old days, when a prospector's claim ran out, he would start getting dust instead of nuggets in his pan (or whatever system he was using), and this was termination dust. Claim done. So nature gives us a similar signal" summer done.

Unfortunately my zoom feature has ceased. I fear my camera has therefore deceased too. Well, out on the back porch, we can just see dawn, and snow dust on the Chugach range. But there it is. The Fireweed has folded up. The birches turn yellow. Winter is upon us. Part of the fun of living in Alaska. Here in suburbia I can't go out and cut firewood. But we must accept change. The year wheels.

Dividing head woes

Things have been very awry. My clock wheels are in trouble. Fortunately they are acrylic, or I would be out a fortune. Problem is that while some of the teeth look fine, others have flat tops. After pondering this one for a while I finally came to the conclusion that the dividing head is running out. This means it isn't centered. It is wobbling. So let's check.

Observe my new elegant mini-dial indicator holder. It will hold both my Imperial supersensitive indicator (shown above) and a conventional DTI. It is being used to record the runout (wobble) on the wheel, which is is on a mandrel (shaft) held in a collet. These are my wonderful ER collets. They have essentially zero wobble.
 

 'Nother shot same thing, same results. Runout about .002" or about 4 "cents" (.04mm). Uh-oh. The wheel is quite acceptable for clockwork. Time to check the runout on the shaft of the dividing head. This is quite a production. The dividing head is mounted on the mill. This, except for the base, is made of non-ferrous metal, and the indicator base will not adhere. So I had left the vise on the mill. In it I clamped a piece of angle iron, aand the dial indicator will adhere to that!  So by now I had acquired a metric dial indicator, and checked the runout again. Horrors. A whole millimeter!
The runout is all in the shaft of the dividing head.

Then  I took the dividing head apart and checked its shaft. It needed no dail indicator to show it was bent. So I made a new one. I used my steady rest to hold things still. Here I am, parting offf the result. I claim a new method of parting off. I use my Dremel tool holder, one of the very fragile  cutoff wheels, and spin the lathe one way and the work i t'other. Got a nice clean part, and a very narrow kerf.

So the next thing was to do something about this. It is a very small dividing head, so my next idea was to add a new outboard support.  It is an aluminum block. Here it is under construction.

The results on divde head 2.0 are not encouraging. I measure the runout  on the new spindle:

It still comes to 30 cents. While better than a whole dollar it is not very good. Impasse. While I am figuring out what do do about this, I added a new feature to Cecil B. de Mille. Behold my Z-axis Digital Readout.

Just a super-cheap digital plastic caliper, a bit of angle aluminum, and some drill and tap, and now I know where my Z-axis is. Of course I can always use the dials. But the Count himself (on Sesame Street) would get confused  by the number of turns you made. And one turn off is a whole millimeter off. Worthwhile addition.

Big wheels on a small lathe

No matter how large a lathe you have, sooner or later you will come up with something too bigto turn. When I went to module 0.9 on the clock, I calculated the size of the biggest wheel and found I could swing it (that is, get it on the lathe without colliding with the bed). So I said, let us go ahead and do this thing with module 0.9. The following picture is the 50 tooth gears made so far. None of them are stellar. So we foresee problems ahead.

First thing was to cut the blanks out for the midsize wheels. I did this on the bandsaw. The first thing I did was to cut out masonite-type board slightly smaller than than the gear itself. When I put it on the lathe, it was very obvious that the regular toolpost was not going to reach to the rim and cut it. Impasse. Next morning I started designing a fixture that would move the toolpost -- and realized as I did I already had one, the compound slide. The Taig compound is very flimsy, so I usually don't use it unless I have to cut tapers. So up with the compound and success:

plus I have an extra 25 mm (1") by moving the tool to the outside groove.

So the last problem was to make a new dividing head plate. I did this my usual way, with my PostScript program. I used my optical center punch. Then off to the drill press. Just to make sure everything was centered, I used a fixture.

Then I put the dividing head back together and tried some more 50 tooth blanks.  None of them were stellar either. There is something wrong with the dividing head. But that will wait until the next episode.

Change of pace: this year's garden

One of the problems of living in suburbia is the lack of space to put in a garden. Another, for me, was the less than sterling health. But I seem to be unable to live without planting something. So this year, willy-nilly, I put a garden on the back porch.

Front to back, we have radishes, spinach, mesclun (lettuce mix), red leaf lettuce and tomatoes. We have aready picked some of them and they are delicious.

As you see the tomatoes are actually tomatoing. I am not sure they will ripen. But they are certainly happy, and that is what counts.

I suppose I am a farmer at heart.I like to grow things you can eat. Even if my farm is now the back porch, and wait til next year when I will get some more real estate. It is now container gardening time.

We will return to our regularly shceduled clockmaking drama in the next episode.

Life at module 0.9

In the last episode, we nade some lantern pinions. Measurement revealed that they were actually module 0.9. So this is really a  blessing. Since I am making my own cutters, the larger module will be easier to work with. So I am now embarking on the process of cutting the wheels. The first problem is to make the cutter.  I use Dremel 3mm tool shanks from expended Dremel tool cutters. Cheap, and they are good steel. they can be hardened and tempered. I am making a fly cutter, a one-point cutting tool.

Now a fly cutter does not actually cut teeth. What it does is cut the space between teeth. A clock tooth is supposed to have a cycloidal profile. This is the profile generated by a circle rolling on another circle. Yuk. However, this is approximated by a straight cut with a "rounded  over" circular radius at the tip. The radius is something like 1.7 mm at module 0.9.

So as a first task I made a button gauge.

I turned down a piece of steel to the proper radius, say 1.7 mm. I am too tired to go consult my notes in the shop. I drilled two holes the proper distance apart. This was done on the mill, you could never hit it by eye. The button gauge will be used see if I am on target with the radius. There is the problem of depth of cut, but if I overdo this I can always grind it off. Off to the mill.

Here we have an expended Dremel shaft put into a homemade fixture, a piece of square stock with a setscrew to hold it in place. The fixture is clamped in the mill vise.

I have available 3mm, 2mm, and 1mm. end mills. These are diameters. Hmm. If I were to cut 1.7 radius I would need a 3.4 mm cutter. Unicorn. Uncomfortable. But the 3mm guy will go 1.5 mm aand for now that will do. It is quite difficult to center up the cutter. But above you see it taking shape. So I did this. Now we heat it up red hot and quench. This will harden the steel.

I use my handy furnace and water-quench, and then temper, a difficult job on a piece smaller than your little fingernail.

Having done this, we take a test cut on a leftover blank we happen to have. The diameter is completly off, we just want to see if the cutter works at all.

So I mount this random blank on the dividing head and cut a few teeth. The diameter is wacky. But it does work -- i.e. it cuts teeth. Spacing all wrong of course.

Next step is to turn up a proper blank on the lathe. I cut them out on the bandsaw. The scrollsaw would be better, but it melts the plastic so the bandsaw wins.

Now we can cut teeth properly. I did a whole bunch of them. There are so many errors you can make. You can forget to tighten the dividing head, for instance. This will chew the blank. You can forget to loosen the dividing head, which will mean slippage in the gear train. Maybe I should loctite the worm. But I don't want to do this yet.

Anyway, at the end of several days work,  I came up with some wheels.

The leftmost wheel is complete chowder, as Tom Lipton would say. As we go left to right, we see gradual improvement, as I correct my mistakes, so the rightmost wheel is almost usable. But there are two problems. The tooth profile is off. Also the spacing is irregular. The tooth widths vary. This is a problem with my homemade dividing plate. In the next episode we del with these problems.